Method of and apparatus for sewing seams



April'18, 1933. L ALMOND ET AL 1,904,398

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAMS Filed Dec. 26, 1930 5 Sheeiis-Sheet 1 April 18, 1933. L. L ALMOND ET AL 1,904,398

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAMS Filed Dec. 28, 1930 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 a Leskil). .7777207Zd' 301%??6 1221742592072 l8, ALMOND ET AL METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAMS Filed Dec. 26, 19:50 5 Sheef-Sheet 5 j 7W67ZZ0715 .LesZer L. .2717720710! flamed fler'r'iggiarp .7 4: g. Wizeds Z? 1 a Way:

- 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 L. L. ALMOND ET AL METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAMS Filed Dec. 26, 1930 April 18, 1933.

April 18, 1933. L ALMOND ET AL 1,904,398

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAHS File d Dec. 26, 1930 s'sneets-sheet 5 Tliyl: I h.

l j 59 v i5 1.757257067413071? .ZQasier .26. 7207 i 414 J 9 Zalhilti fierrr 1 ply v Apr. 18, 1933 UNITED STATES LESTER n ALMOND, o1- Nonrn 'I'BOY,

PATENT OFFICE HOLLAND HERRINGTON, OI TROY, m

YORK, AND FRANCIS A. MATTHEWS, OF KITCHENER, ONTARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOBI: TO CLUETT, PEABODY G; CO INC OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK METHOD.OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING SEAMS This invention pertains to the formation of sewed seams and relates more particularly to a novelmethod of and ap aratus for use in forming sewed seams w erein an eyepointed needle is used as one of the threadmanipulating instrumentalities.

In starting a seam by theuse of an eyepointed needle, it is necessary to impose some restraint upon the free end of the thread extending from the needle eye (as, for example, by providing a long end or by holding or clamping such end) in order that the needle may not be unthreaded in advancing through the work or by the action of cooperating stitch-forming instruments such, for example, as a looper, shuttle, or the like during the completion of the first stitch cycle? The retention above the work of this free end of the needle thread, as the needle advances in making the first stitch, leaves the end projecting from the work at the completion of the seam, and while this may not be of great importance, under most circumstances, it constitutes a recognized defect in some classes of work. For examp'e, such a free end of thread projecting from the end of each of a series of buttonholes on the front of a shirt, or other garment, imparts an unfinished appearance to the garment, which is objected to by the trade. Hand trimming of the work is expensive and unsatisfactory, but by the method and apparatus of the present invention we avoid the necessity of such trimming, causing the free end of the needle thread to be pulled through to the under or rear face of the work, so that a better finish is obtained than would be secured even by hand trimming.

Thus, in accordance with our invention, we advance the needle for forming the first stitch of a series in the usual manner, while holding the free end of the thread above the work, but before the completion of the first stitch cycle we release such endand cause-it to be dragged down through the work. However, before it is unthreaded from the needle eye, we again seize it at a point beneath or behind the work and hod it there until the completion of one or more stitch cycles, or at least until the seam is safely started. 1

While the invention is of broad utility Preferably we make use of the usual movable lower thread cutter member as the means for seizing and clamping the upper thread below the work,slightly modifying the lower thread cutter for this purpose and actuating it in such a way as to enable it to engage and nip the upper thread at the proper time. Preferably, this old movable cutter member is so changed that it no longer has a cutting edge, but merely acts to push the lower thread into engagement with a stationary cutter blade. While we may use a clamping member for holding the lower thread end, we do not find it necessary. The clamped end of the upper thread is automatically released after the completion of a plurality of stitch cycles.

In the accompanying drawings we have disclosed one embodiment of apparatus, by way of example, useful inperforming the process of the present invention, it being understood in its broader aspects that the invention is capable of embodiment in specifically different mechanisms. V

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a buttonhole sewing machine of a well known type but embodying the improvements provided by the present invention and showing the parts in the position which they occupy substantially at the end of the first stitch cycle;

Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the machine with the parts disposed as in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary plan view showing devices for actuating the clamp and cutter for the upper or needle thread positioned as in Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view, to large scale, showing the presser foot- (detached) with and cutter, the clamp and cutter being in its final inoperative or third position corresponding to Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is an inverted section, to still larger scale, on the line 55 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing the corresponding parts Just prior to stopping,with the clamp in its primary inoperative or first position; I

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but with the parts positioned as in Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 3 but showing the parts as positioned after stoppin and after the presser foot has been raise with the clamp in its operative or second position;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but with the parts positioned as in Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is an inverted section on the line 1010 of Fig. 9, to larger scale, showing the thread clamped;

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary bottom plan view of .the machine, with the shuttle race removed, showing the parts as positioned after stopping and after the presser foot has been lifted, the lower thread pusher being advanced to position for cutting the lower thread;

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary bottom plan view with the shuttle race removed, showing the lower thread pusher at the end of the first stitch cycle;

Fig. 13 is a view similar to Fig. 12 but showing the parts after a plurality of successive stitch cycles;

Fig. 14 is a perspective View, to large scale, in vertical section, substantially on the line 1414 of Fig. 12, showing the position of the needle and the under thread pusher as the needle descends in performing the first stitch cycle; Fig. 14 is a view similar to Fig. 14 but showing the position of the parts near the end of the first stitch cycle with the lower thread pusher clamping the upper thread against the under surface of the throat plate;

Fig. 15 is a fragmentary section on the line 15-15 of Fig. 12;

Fig. 16 is asimila'r section but showing the parts as positioned in Fig. 13;

Fig. 17 is a diagrammatic section, substantially on the line 1717 of Fig. 3, showing certain of the control devices for the upperlthread clamp at the end of the first stitch cyc e;

Fig. 18 is a view similar to Fig. 17, but to smaller scale, and with the parts disposed substantially as at the end of the first row of overseam stitches;

Fig. 19 is a View similar to Fig. 18 but with the parts positioned as at the complet -on of the second row of overseam stitches;

Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 18 but with the parts as positioned when the machine sto Fig. 21 is a fragmentary plan view showing certain of the control devices in the position corresponding to Fig. 18;

Fig. 22 is a diagrammatic vertical section, substantially on the line 2222 of Fig. 2, showing certain of the control devices for the lower thread pusher at the beginning of Fig. 29 is a rear view of the buttonhole shown in Fig. 28;

Fig. 30 is a plan view of a piece of material having a buttonhole formed in accordance with the present invention; and

Fig. 31 is a rear view of the fabric showin the same buttonhole.

he present improvements are shown embodied in a straight buttonhole machine of the well-known Singer type, such as is dis: closed in the patents to Allen No. 806,231, dated December 5, 1905, and No. 885,310, dated April 21, 1908, to which reference may be had for such details of construction as are not herein fully described, it being understood that the present improvements are not necessarily restricted to this particular form of machine but may be embodied in other sewing machines intended for the same or different purposes.

Referring to Fig. 28, the numeral 100 designates the front faceof a piece of fabric, for example, a shirt front, having a buttonhole 101' finished at its lateral edges with rows 102 and 103 of overseam or other suitable stitches and at its ends by the transverse or barring stitches 104 and 105. Machines of this type usually are provided with means for cutting and clamping the upper thread at the completion of the stitching operation, and when a new buttonhole is to be started the clamped end of the thread leading to the needle eye remains above the work during the completion of the first stitch cycle and is not usually released until after the formation of a considerable number of s'itches. Thus, as shown in Fig. 28, the end T of the upper or needle thread is left projecting from the finished buttonhole on the front face of the work. For certain classes of work this constitutes a defect. The lower thread U is usually cut at the rear side of the work and its projecting end, as shown in Fig. 29, is of no consequence since it is at the back or rear side of the fabric.

The present invention provides. for the withdrawal of the end of the upper thread T drawn into and preferably through to the under side of the work, givin the button- 5 hole a finished appearance at t e front face of the fabric, as shown in Fig. 30, the upper thread end T usually appearln' at the rear side of the work together with t e end of the under thread U, as shown in Fig. 31.

As shown in the present drawings the machine com rises the overhanging bracket arm 1 (Fig. I? rising from the right-hand end of a bed p ate 2 supported by the base 3. The stitch-forming instrumentalities consist of the usual eye-pointed needle 4 carried by the needle bar 5 mounted in the usual horizontally swinging frame and deriving its vertical reciprocating movements from a main drive shaft which has hearings in the horizontal portion of the bracket arm 1 and which is provided with the fixed drive pulley 6 and the loose pulley 7. The needle cooperates with a shuttle mounted in a raceway 8 (Fig. 2) and carried by an oscillating shaft 9 which is actuated by means of the rocker 10 and link 11 from the main shaft of the machine. The work carrier or support comprises the longitudinally movable slide plate 12 having an elongated opening 13 (Fig. 6), and the stationary throat plate P fitting within said opening, and having the hole H for the passage of the needle. With this work support cooperates the presser foot 14 provided with the elongate knife opening 15. This presser foot is supported by means of a plate 16 secured to a block 17 (Fig. 1) pivotally mounted at 18 upon a block 19 carried by the slide plate 12. The plate 16 is furnished with an arm 20 (Figs. 1 and 6) projecting to the right of the pivot 18, as viewed in Fig. 1, and by means of this arm the plate 16 and the presser foot may be rocked about the pivot 18 to lift the presser foot from the throat plate.

For depressing the arm 20 we provide a bell crank lever 21 (Figs. 1 and 6) free to turn on a shaft 22 mounted in bearings 23 projecting forwardly from the bracket 1. llhis bell crank lever comprises the forwardly directed arm 24 (Figs. 1 and 6) from which depends a pivoted link 24 whose lower end is guided in an opening in a bracket 25 pro- {ecting forwardly from the bed plate 2. This ink 24 carries a bracket provided with a stub shaft on which is mounted a roller 26 (Fig. 6) which rests upon the upper surface of the arm 20. The forward end of the lever arm 24 is furnished with an opening for the reception of a chain 27 which extends down to a treadle (not shown) actuable by the foot of the operator to swing the bell crank lever, thereby causing the roller 26 to bear upon the arm 20, and thus rocking the plate 16 and raising the presser foot from the work.

The machine is provided with automatic stop mechanism of a usual type adapted to stop the machine automatically at the end of a certain predetermined number of stitch cycles. This stop mechanism com rises a swinging frame 28 (Fig. 1) arrange to rock in a vertical plane between pintle members 29 (Fig. 2) and normally tending to swing in a clockwise direction under the action of a spring 30 (Fig. 1). The frame 28 has slide bearings for a stop pin 31 adapted to move vertically in the frame and which is urged upwardly by means of a spring 31. This stop pin 31 is adapted, when the frame is swung into vertical position, to cooperate with a stop cam 32 fixed to the main drive shaft, the cam being arranged so as first to depress the pin 31 against the action of the spring 31 and then to permit the pin to sna up into a socket in the cam, thereby positively reventing further movement of the drive s aft, the swinging of the frame to stop position causing the belt shifter B to move the belt from the fast pulley 6 ontothe adjacent loose pulley 7. The stop pin 31 has a fixed collar which, in the downward movement of the pin, is carried down below a spring-pressed pin (not shown) in a boss 22 carried byan arm 22 secured to shaft 22. Thus when pin 31 snaps up into the cam socket, the arm 22 is raised, thus rocking shaft 22.

To prevent raising the presser foot during the operation of the machine, there is provided a link 33 (Fig. 1) connecting the frame 28 with a rocker member 34 disposed beneath the arm 20, and when the frame 28 is positioned as in Fig. 1, that is to say, while the machine is operating, the rocker 34 is so positioned that the arm 20 can not be depressed, but when the frame 28 is moved to stopping position, the rocker 34 is swung downwardly so as to permit depression of the arm 20.

The slide plate 12 is supported by a transversely movable slide 12 (Fig. 1), and these plates are moved in properly timed relation by means of the usual cam 35 (Fig. 2) which is actuated through proper 'connections to the main drive shaft.

7 Referring more particularly to Fi s. 3 to 10 inclusive and Fig. 27, the presser oot 14 is furnished with a horizontal slot 36 for the reception of the upper thread clamp and cutter. This slot is conveniently provided by making the presser foot in two parts, one of which, 14 is removable and which is so shaped as to provide the slot 36 between its upper surface and the opposed lower surface of the presser foot proper. The cutter 37 and the clamp 38 are secured to a vertical shaft turning in a boss 39 forming a part of the presser foot and provided at its upper end with a lever arm 40. The cutter 37 cooperates with the edge of the presser foot 14 at the end of slot 15 to cut the upper thread, while the clamp 38 cooperates with a surthread when the clamp and cutter are in their operative or No. 2 position, shown in Figs. 9 and 10. The surface 38 is cut away at 38", and when the clamp is moved to its secondary inoperative or No. 3 position (Figs. 4 and 5) the thread is released from the clamp.

The lever arm 40 is pivotally connected to a downwardly bent portion 41 (Figs. 1 and 6) of a controlling rod or bar 42, the right-hand end of which is guided in an opening in a bracket 43 carried by a plate 44 secured to,

the left-hand end of arm 20. The rod or bar 42 is provided with a fixed collar 45 having a rearwardly projecting pin 46 to which one end of a coil s ring 47 is secured. The opposite end of this spring is attached to the bracket 43, the spring being under tension and tending to move the bar 42 to the right, as viewed in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 6 and 8, thus tending to swing the combined clamp and cutter to the position shown in Fig. 4, hereinafter referred to as its third position.

To the left of the bracket 43 the bar 42 is provided with a second fixed collar 48, preferably having a soft washer or cushioning member 49, for example, leather or rubber, at its right-hand face. To the right of the bracket 43 the rod 42 is provided with a fixed truncated conical abutment 50 which cooperates at times with parts, now to be described to limit movement of the bar 42 to the right as well as for moving the bar to the left.

Referring particularl to Figs. 6 and 17 to 19 inclusive, a detent ever 51 is mounted upon the left-hand end of the shaft 22, above described, and extends rearwardly. This detent lever is provided at its free end with a latch member 52 which overlies the shaft 42. This latch is pivotally supported on the end of the lever 51 to swing in a vertical plane and is furnished with a tail 53 which is normally held against stop member 54 by means of a spring 54. As thus arranged the free end of the latch may be raised without changing the position of the lever 51, but the latch can not be depressed below the osition shown in Fig. 17 without correspon ing movement of the lever 51.

A second detent lever 56, for determining the movement of the. bar 42, is also shown most clearly in Figs. 1 and 17 to 19 inclusive, this lever being pivotally supported at 57 upon a block 58 carried by the arm 20, the rear end of the lever being urged upwardly by a spring 56. This lever 56 projects rearwardly from its pivot to a point slightly beyond the shaft or bar 42 and is adapted at times to stand directly across the path of movement of the bar so as to limit such movement of the bar to the right. To cushion the blow of engagement of the bar 42 with the lever 56, it is preferred to provide the lever 56 with a spring member 56 (Figs. 6 and 17) at its left-hand face as viewed in Fig. 6.

The lever 56 is provided with a downward- 1y directed arm 56 whose lower end is disposed substantially opposite to a window 59 (Fig. 1) formed in the base 3. At its lower end the arm 56 is furnished with a horizontal portion 60 upon which is mounted an elongate latch 61 adapted to swing in a horizontal plane and which is provided with a spring urging it to stand substantially in the osition indicated in Figs. 8 and 11 where its longest dimension is substantially perpendicular to the front face of the machine. This latch cooperates at times with a disk 63 having a smooth fiat front face and a beveled edge 64. This disk is carried by a slide bar 65 guided in an opening in a bracket 66 secured to the bed plate 2 and also passing through an opening in the front flange 67 (Figs. 11 and 17) of the bed plate. A coil spring 68 (Fig. 11) surrounds this slide bar 65, bearing at one end against the bracket 66 and at its other against a pin 69 secured in the bar, the spring thus tending to move the bar 65 and the disk 63 rearwardly.

The rear end of the slide bar 65 (Fig. 11) lies in the horizontal plane of movement of one arm of a lever 70 pivoted at 71 and having a second arm '70 which is engaged by a spring 70 tending to swing the lever in the counterclockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 11. The lever arm 70 is provided with a projecting toe 72 at its right-hand end (Fig. 11) adapted to be engaged at times by a substantially spherical stud 73 projecting from the lower end of an arm 74 (Figs. 1 and 11) forming a part of the bell crank lever 21 above described, the arm 74 passing down through a suitable opening in the bed plate. Movement of the lever 21 for raising the presser foot swings the arm 74 rearwardly and thus by engagement of the stud 73 with the finger 72 swings the lever 70 to the position shown in Fig. 11, thus at the same time permitting the spring 68 to retract the disk 63. In order to holdthe lever 70 in this position after the presser foot has been released by the operator, we provide a latch member 75 (Figs. 22 to 26) carried by a lever 76 (Fig. 11) pivoted at 77 on a block 78 se cured to the under side of the bed plate and urged upwardly by a spring 76 The latch 75 is furnished with a notch 79 (Fig. 26) adapted to engage the edge of the lever arm 70. The lever 76 carries a block 81 pivoted at 82 and urged by a spring 83 into contact with a stop 84, the block being free to swing to the left. as viewed in Fig. 22, against the tension of spring 83, but being lim ted by the stop 84 against movement to the right. This block is disposed in the plane of rotation of a cam 85 on the shuttle oscillating shaft 9. This cam has a projecting toe 86 and when the cam is oscillated in one direction, the toe 86 freely tips the block 81 and passes above it without actuating the lever 76, as indicated in Figs. 23 and 24; but when the toe 86, in turning in the o posite direction, engages the top surface 0 the block 81,

"' as shown in Fig. 25, the lever 76 is moved down against the action of its retaining spring 7 6, thus depressin the latch 75 (Fig. 26) and permitting the e ge of the lever arm 70 to escape from the notch 79. The lever arm 7 0 then moves quickly in a counterclockwise direction, to the position of Figs. 2 and 13, thus projecting the disk 63 forwardly.

The left-hand end of the lever arm 70 is forked, as shown at 87 (Fig. 11), for the reception of a pin 88 projecting from the slide bar 89 which is guided in suitable ways carried by the bed plate. This slide bar 89 carries a pusher member 90 instead of the usual lower thread cutter. This pusher 90 (Figs. 11 and 14) is arranged to reciprocate across the needle hole H in the throat plate P and is adapted to push a bight of the lower thread U into engagement with a resil ent cutting plate 91 having a sharp edge. To facilitate this cutting action, there is provided a loop forming arm 92 pivoted at 93 (Fig. 11) to a fixed part of the machine and having a slot wh ch receives a pin 94 projecting from the slide bar 89. Thus as the slide bar is moved to carry the pusher or positioner 90 to operative position, the end of the arm 92 is swung rapidly so as to provide a bight of the lower thread for engagement by the pusher, and to draw enough thread to start the next buttonhole.

That portion 95 of the work support which lies just to the left of the needle opening H, as viewed in Fig. 14, cooperates with the lower thread pusher 90, as hereinafter described, in clamping the end of the upper thread T. For this purpose the pusher 90 is provided with an elongate opening 97 through which the needle passes when the pusher is in the'position indicated in Figs. 11 and 14. To permit release of the end of the upper thread T after the first-few stitches of the seam have been safely formed, we provide the under surface of the part 95 of the plate 12 with a transverse notch or groove 98 (Figs. 13 and 15), and as the plate 12 moves to the left from the position of Fig. 12 to that of Fig. 13, the groove or notch 98 is brought into registry with the thread end held by the pusher, so that the end is free to be drawn out of the clamp.

The operation of the machine is substantially as follows, it being assumed that the machine has nearly completed a buttonhole and is just on the point of stopping. At this time the thread clamp controlling parts above the bed plate are positioned substantially as in Figs. 6 and 19, While the parts below the bed plate occupy a position sub stantially as shown in Fig. 13. Referring to Figs. 6 and 19, it will be noted that the latch 52 of the lever 51 is bearing against the righthand surface of the cone 50 and is holdin the rod 42 to the left against the action 0 the spring 47. As thus positioned the clamp and cutter for the upper thread is in its retracted, primaryinoperative, or No. 1 position as indicated in Flgs. 6 and 7.

When the machine actually reaches the end of the buttonhole-forming operation, the frame 28 is allowed to swing in a clockwise direction, thus moving the rocker 34 from beneath the arm 20, leaving the presser foot free to be lifted. At the same time the pin 31 is brought into the path of the cam 32, which first depresses this pin, carrying its fixed abutment collar to a point beneath the snap pin in the boss 22 on the arm 22; and when the stop pin 31 snaps up into the socket in the cam 32, the abutment collar lifts the pin in the boss 22", thus swinging the arm 22 and turning the shaft 22 so as positively to lift the lever 51, thereby removing the latch 52 from behind the cone 50. This allows the rod 42 to snap suddenly to the right, as viewed in Fig. 6, until its end is arrested by the lever 56,-the blow being cushioned by the spring 56". This movement of the rod 42 to the right carries it to the position of Figs. '8 and 20 and moves the clamp and cutter into the operative or No. 2 position shown in Figs. 9 and 10, where the upper thread T is cut and the end leading to the needle is clamped against the surface 38 of the presser foot. In order to remove the work from beneath the presser foot, the latter must now be raised, and the operator depresses the treadle, thereby rocking the bell crank 21 and moving the link 24 downwardly (Fig. 1) so that its roller 26 engages the arm 20 and raises the presser foot. At the same time the downwardly projecting arm 74 of the bell crank 21 swingsrearwardly and its stud 73, acting against the finger 72, swings the lever into the position shown in Fig. 11. This movement of the lever actuates the slide bar 89, mdving the arm 92 so as to form a bight in the lower thread and at the same time advancing the pusher 90 across the needle hole in the throat plate, thereby cutting the lower thread by engagement with the sharp edge of the plate 91. Since this cutting of the lower thread takes place subsequently to the cutting of the upper thread, the tension on the lower thread before cutting tends to draw the end of the upper thread down into the work so that it is concealed, as explained in the patent to Allen No. 885,310, supra.

When the lever 70 is swung as above described, its edge engages the beveled surface 80 of the latch (Fig. 22) thus depressing the latch until the edge of the lever is caught in the notch 79. This holds the lever 70 in set position, as shown in Fig. 11. During this movement of the lever 70 the spring 68 retracts the disk 63, thus permitting the spring-actuated latch 61 to assume a position shown in Fig. 11. wherein its length is substantially perpendicular to the face of the disk.

To start the machine, the stop frame 28 is swung over to the left by means of the usual connections to a foot treadle and the belt is shifted onto pulley 6. As the needle advances in performing the first stitch cycle, it descends through the opening in the throat plate, as indicated in Fig. 14, the free end of the needle thread T still being clamped between the clamping member 38. and the surface 38 of the presser foot, it being remembered that at this time the end of the rod 42 is in engagement with the lever 56, as shown in Figs. 8 and 20.

After the needle completes its downward movement, the shuttle carries a bight of the upper thread T around the lower thread U while the needle rises above the throat plate. During the descending movement of the needle, the shaft 9 is rocked in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Figs. 22 and 23 until it reaches the position of Fig. 24, but as the needle starts to move up, the shaft 9 begins its reverse movement, and before the needle reaches its upper position, the toe 86 of the cam engages the upper end of the block 81 (Fig. 25), thus depressing the lever 76 and permitting the arm 70 to esca e from the notch 79. The spring 7 0 imme iately snaps the lever 70 back to the position shown in Fig. 2. This movement of the lever forces the slide bar 65 forwardly, pushing the disk 63 forwardly and, by means of the latch 61, pushing forwardly the lower end of the lever 56*. This depresses the rear end of the lever 56 to a point below the rod 42 (Figs. 3 and 17), thus permitting the latter, under the action of its spring 47, to move to its extreme right-hand position, as shown in Fig. 3'. In this position the upper clamp and cutter are moved to their secondary inoperative or No. 3 position, shown in Figs. 4 and 5, wherein the clamp 38 is positioned opposite to the recess 68 in the presser foot, thus permitting the upper thread freely to escape from between the clamp and the presser foot. At substantially the same instant as the upper thread is thus released, the slide bar 89 is returned from the position of Figs. 11 and 14 to that of Figs. 13 and 14, thus carrying the lower thread pusher 90 back to its original position. Since the upper thread has previously been carried down through the opening 97 in the pusher 90, the upper thread is nipped between the pusher 90 and the under side of the part 95, the movement of the pusher 90 being of sufficient extent to pull the free end of the upper thread down through the work. In forming the first row of stitches, the plate 12 moves to the left, as already described, and after the formation of the first few stitches, the groove 98 (Fig. 16) at the under side of the late 12 comes opposite to the clamped end of the needle thread T as indicated in Fig. 16 thus releasing said end. While the groove 98 is desirable it is not wholly necessary as the thread end will eventually be pulled out of the clamp as the work progresses. The machine may now continue to form stitches, first forming the row of stitches 102, then the barring stitches 104, then the second row of overseam stitches 103, and finally the barring stitches 105, whereupon the machine stops with the upper thread clamped as above described.

When, as above described, the lever 56 is displaced from the path of rod 42 and the latter moves to the right, as viewed in Fig. 1, the collar 48 with its washer 49 engages the bracket 43 thereby limiting such movement of the rod, but when during the formation of the next buttonhole, the plate 12 moves to the left, it carries the clamp and cutter together with the rod 42 to the left until eventually the cone 50 reaches the latch 52. The latter now rises to permit the cone 50 to pass beneath it so that the latch becomes an abutment for the rod on the return movement of the plate 12 thereby tensioning the spring 47. During the movement of the plate 12 to the left, the latch 61 traverses the front face of the disk 63 until eventually it engages the beveled surface of the disk, whereupon the latch swings to an inclined position with reference to the disk (Fig. 21 During the return movement of the sli e plate 12 toward the right in forming the second row of overseam stitches, the lever 52 acts as an abutment for the cone 50 as just described, holding the up er thread clamp in the position of Fig. 7, while the latch 61 is gradually tipped under the action of the disk-actuating spring 65 until it lies substantially parallel to the face of the disk, as shown in Fig. 6. This permits the lever 56 to swing upwardly to its normal position under the action of its actuating spring 56 until its end lies across the path of the rod 42 in readiness to stop the latter at the proper time. The slide plate 12 continues to move to the right until the completion of the buttonhole, whereupon the machine stops with the parts substantially in the position as described.

The machine thus automatically completes the buttonhole, cutting both upper and lowor threads, and completing the buttonholc with both ends of each of the upper and lower threads extending down into or through the work. It is contemplated that other and equivalent means may be found for performing the novel process herein claimed and that changes in size, proportion and relative arrangement'of parts in the mechanism disclosed may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention.

We claim:

1. Apparatus for making a sewed seam comprising an eyeointed needle, means for advancing the need e through the work while holding the free end of the thread at a int above-the work, means for releasin sai free end before the completion of the rst stitch cycle to permit it to be drawn down to the under side of the work, and means for temporarily holdin said end at a point below the work until the completion of at least one stitch cycle.

2. Apparatus for making a sewed seam comprising an eyeointed needle means for advancing the need e through the work while holding the free end of the thread at a point above the work, means for releasing said end before the needle completes its first retracting movement, means for pulling said end' down to the under side of the work, means for temporarily holding said end during the completion of at least the first stitch cycle, and means for thereafter releasing said end.

3. A sewing machine having means for cutting and holding the needle thread end at a point above the work, and means for releasing the thread end during the first succeeding stitch cycle and for pulling said end down completely through the work.

4. A sewin machine having means for cutting and hol ing the needle thread end at a point above the work, means for releasing said thread end during the first succeeding stitch cycle, and means for pullin said end throu h the work and holding it uring the comp eti on of at least one further stitch cycle.

5. A sewing machine comprising stitchforming mechanism including a needle for carrying a thread downwardly through the work, means for holding the end of the needle thread prior to the descent of the needle in forming the initial stitch of a series, means for releasing said end of the thread before the needle completes its next upward movement to permit said end to be drawn down below the work, and means for clamping said end at a point below the work.

6. A sewing machine comprising stitchforming mechanism including a needle for carrying a thread through the work, means operative after the completion of a predetermined number of stitches for cutting and clamping said thread at that side of the work from which the needle advances, said clamping means holding the end of the thread as the needle initiates its work-piercing movement in beginning a new series of stitches, means for causing said clamping means to release said end before the needle completes its retracting stroke whereby to permit said end to be drawn through the work to, the opposite side of the latter, and means for clamping said end at the latter side of the work.

7. A sewing machine comprising stitchforming mechanism including a needle for carrying a thread through the Work, means for temporarily holding the end of the needle thread as the needle initiates its advancin movement in starting a series of stitches, sai holding means releasmg the end of the thread before the completion of the first stitchforming cycle whereby to ermit said end to be drawn through the wor and means for temporarily holding said end after being drawn throu h the work and during the completion of said stitch cycle said latter holding means releasing said end after the com letion of a predetermined number of stitc es.

8. A sewing ,machine comprising stitchformin mechanism including a needle and means or reci rocating the needle to carry a thread throng the work, means operative after the completion of a predetermined number of stitches for cutting said thread at a point between-the needle eye and the work and for clamping the thread end leading from the needle eye, means for releasing said clamped thread end, subsequent to the beginning, but before the completion of the first stitch cycle in starting a new series of stitches, and means for pulling said thread end to the opposite side of the work and for clamping and holding said end at the latter side of the work during the completion of the first stitch cycle and during a predetermined number of subsequent cycles.

9. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle, stop mechanism for stopping the machine at the end of a predetermined number of stitch cycles, said machine comprising means for holding the free end of the needle thread as the needle advances in forming the first stitch of a series, means for releasing said end before the needle completes its first retracting movement, and means for drawin said free end through the work and for hol in said free end as the needle completes its rst stitch cycle.

10. A sewing machine of lock stitch type employing upper and lower threads in formmg a seam, means including a movable element for cutting the lower thread at the completion of the seam, and means for actuating said movable element so as to pull the free end of the upper thread through the work in startin another seam.

11. lock stitch sewing machine employing upper and lower threads and having a work support and a needle, means including a reci rocating member disposed below the wor support for cutting the lower thread upon the completion of a series of stitches, and means for actuating said reciprocating member to pull the free end of the needle thread down through the work in starting a new series of stitches.

12. A look stitch sewing machine having a work support, a needle, and a shuttle, means includin a reciprocating thread pusher disposed be ow the work support for cutting the shuttle thread at the completion of a series of stitches, means for actuating said reciprocating pusher to pull the free end of the needle thread through the work in starting a new series of stitches, and means cooperating with said reciprocating pusher for clamping the free end of the needle thread at a point below the work support.

13. A lock stitch sewing machine employing upper and lower threads and having a work support and a needle, means including a movable member disposed below the work support for cutting the lower thread at the completion of a series of stitches, and means for actuating said movable member to cut the lower thread and thereafter to clamp the free end of the upper thread against the under side of the work support.

14. A sewing machine having a work support and a needle, means above the Work support for clamping the end of the needle thread, means below the work support for clamping the end of the needle thread, means for actuating the upper clamping means to clamp the needle thread when the machine completes a series of stitches, means for causing the upper clamping means to release the needle thread during the up-stroke of the needle in performing the first stitch cycle in starting a new series of stitches, and means for actuating the lower clamping means during said first stitch cycle and subsequent to the release of the needle thread by the firstnamed clamping means.

15. A sewing machine comprising a work support and a needle, means for clamping the free end of the needle thread at a point above the work support, means for pulling the end of the needle thread through the work and for clamping it at the under side of the work support, and means for releasing the upper ilamping means and simultaneously actuating the thread pulling and lower clamping means.

16. A sewingmachi ne comprising a work support. a needle. :1 presser foot. means below thework support for clamping a thread, means for simultaneously raising the presser foot and moving said clamping means to an inoperative position, a detent for retaining the clamping means in inoperative position, and means operating during the first fo lowing stitch cycle for retracting said detent means and for restoring the clamping means to o erative position.

17 A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the end of the needle thread, said means comprising a movable clamping member, a fixed clamp member, detent means for holding the movable clamp member in inoperative position at one side of the fixed member, spring means for advancing the movable clamping member and means for detaining it in operative relation to the fixed member thereby to clamp the needle thread end, and means thereafter permitting said spring means to advance the movable clamping member to the other side of the fixed clamping member thereby to release the needle thread, and means for restoring said movable clamping member to inoperative position.

18. A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the needle thread comprising an oscillatory clamping member, means operative to advance said clamping member in successive stages from an inoperative position to a thread-clamping position and then to a thread-releasing position, and means operative to return said clamping member to inoperative position in a single movement.

19. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle and stop mechanism for stopping the machine at the end of a predetermined number of stitch cycles, means for cutting the thread and holdingvthe free end leading to the needle eye at the completion of the last stitch of the series, said machine comprising means causing said end holding means to release the free end of the thread after the needle has partially completed its first stitch cycle in the formation of a new series of stitches and for drawing said end downwardly through the work, and means for temporarily clamping said thread end while the needle completes said first cycle.

20. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle cooperable therewith to form a lock stitch seam, means for holding the free end of the needle thread to prevent unthreading of the needle as the latter advances in forming the first stitch of a series, means including a movable thread pusher for cutting the shuttle thread at the completion of the seam, means for causing the needle thread holding means to release the needle thread end before the completion of the first stitch cycle so as to permit said end to be drawn through the work, and means cooperating with said movable pusher for clamping the needle thread end during the completion of the first stitch cycle.

21. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle adapted to cooperate therewith to form a lock stitch seam, means for stopping the machine at the completion of a predetermined number of stitch cycles, means for cutting and clamping the needle thread when the machine stops, and means for cutting the shuttle thread after the machine stops, said machine comprising means for causing the needle thread holding means to release the thread end after the initiation, but before the completion of the first stitch cycle of a the first stitch cycle of a new series of stitches) thereby permitting said end to be drawn down through the work, a movable member below the work support having an opening for the assage of the needle, and a part cooperablb with said movable member to clamp the needle thread end as the needle returns in completing its first stitch cycle.

23. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle adapted I to cooperate therewith to form a lock stitch seam,'means for stopping the machine at the completion of a predetermined number of stitch cycles, means for cutting and clamping the needle thread when the machine stops, means including a reciprocating thread positioner for cutting the shuttle thread after the machine stops, said machine comprising means for causing the needle thread holding means to release the thread end after the initiation, but before the completion, of the first stitch cycle of a new series of stitches, thereby permitting said end to be drawn through the work, said reciprocating thread positioner having an opening for the passage of the needle and being arranged to slide in co-operative relation to a thread clamping plate, and means for moving said thread positioner so as to pinch the needle thread end between it and the plate as the needle completes its first cycle.

24. A sewing machine of the kind having stitch-forming instrumentalities including an eye-pointed needle and a shuttle adapted to cooperate therewith to form a lock stitch seam, means for stopping the machine at the completion of a predetermined number of stitch cycles, means for cutting and clamping the needle thread when the machine stops, means including a movable element for cutting the shuttle thread'after the machine stops, said machine comprising means for causing the needle thread holding means to release thethread end after the initiation, but before the completion, of the first stitch cycle of a new series of stitches, thereby permitting said end to be drawn through the work, said movable element of the lower thread cutting means having an opening for the passage of the needle, a movable plate cooper-able with said movable element to clamp the needle thread end, said plate havmg a recess therein, means for moving said movable element and plate relativel to each other to pinch the needle thread en between said element and the unrecesse'd portion of the plate as the needle completes its first stitch cycle, and means for thereafter moving the plate relatively to said movable element to bring the recess into registry with the thread end whereby to release the latter.

25. A sewing machine having means for cutting and'clafnping the needle thread comprising a movable clamping member adapted to advance in successive stages from an inoperative to a thread releasing position, a. sliding rod for moving said clam ing member, means tending to move the ro in one direction, a plurality of stops for preventing such movement of the rod, and means for releasing said stops successively whereby to permit the rod to move in a plurality of distinct steps.

26. A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the needle thread comprising a movable clamping member adapted to advance in successive stages from an inoperative to a thread-clamping position, and then to a thread-releasing posit1on, a sliding rod for moving said clamping member, a spring tending to move the rod in such a direction as to advance the clampin member from inoperative position through its clamping position to its releasing position, stop means for limiting movement of the rod and thereby detaining the clamping member in its first or second position respectively, and means for successively releasing said stop means.

27. A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the needle thread comprising a movable clamping member adapted to advance in successive stages from anv inoperative to a thread-clamping position and then to a thread-releasing position, a slide rod for moving the clamp, a fixed abutment on the'rod, means for moving the rod in o position to its spring, a detent engageab 6 with said abutment for detaining the rod with the clamp in its first or inoperative position, and a second detent engageable with the rod when released from the first detent for detaining the rod with the clamp in its second or operative position.

28. A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the needle thread comprising a movable clamping member adapted to advance in successive stages from an inoperative to a thread-clamping position and then to a thread-releasing position, a slide rod for moving the movable clamp member, a spring tending to move the rod for advancing the clamp member from its first toward its second'position, a pair of detents cooperable with the rod to hold the latter in either of two positions corresponding to the first -or inoperative, and the second or operative position, respectively, of the clamping member, means for releasing the first detent when the machine stops at the end of a series of stitches, and means for releasing the second detent when the machine starts on a. new series of stitches.

29. A sewing machine having means for cutting and clamping the needle thread com prising a movable clamping member adapted to advance in successive stages from an inoperative to a thread-clamping position and then to a thread-releasing position, a slide rod for movin the clamp, a spring tending to move the ro in such a direction as to cause the clamp to move successively from its first to its second and then to its third position, a beveled abutment collar on the rod, a detent adapted to ride up over said collar and to drop behind it as the rod is moved in opposition to the spring thereby to hold the clamp in its first or inoperative position, a resilient detent member spaced from the end of the rod when the latter is restrained by the first detent, but engageable by the rod when the latter is released from the first detent whereby to hold the rod with the clamp in its second or operative position, and means for moving the resilient detent out of the path of the rod to allow the clamp to move to its third position.

30. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a needle, a presser foot, means below the work support for clamping a thread, means to prevent raising the presser foot while the machine is runnlng, means for lifting the presser foot while the machine is stopped, means actuable by the presser foot lifting means for moving said clamping means to inoperative position, a latch for retaining the clamping means in such inoperative position, a spring tending to restore the clamping means to operative position, and a cam moving in time with the needle and operative during the performance of the first stitch cycle when the machine is again started for releasing said latch thereby permitting the clamping means to return to operative position.

31. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a needle, a shuttle, a presser foot, a clamp above the work support for the end of the needle thread, a detent for retaining the clamp in operative position while the machine is stopped, a clamp below the work support for clamping the end of the needle thread, means for lifting the presser foot, means actuated by the presser foot lifting means for moving the lower clamp into inoperative position, a spring tending to restore the lower clamp to operative position, a latch for holding the lower clamp in inop erative position, means operable by the presser foot lifting means for setting the detent for the upper clamp in operative position, and means acting when the machine starts and while the needle is performing the first stitch cycle, to release said latch, thereby pere mitting the lower clamping means to return to o rative position and simultaneously re-- leasing the detent device thereby causing the up er clamp to release the thread end.

igned by LESTER L. ALMoND and HOLLAND HERRINGTON at Troy, N. Y., U. S. A., this 2d 

